Salome

Salome is a very small town, north of Yuma and west of Phoenix. There is one food market, a very crowded grocery/hardware store, the Cactus Bar and Restaurant and not much else. The large well developed RV park is a surprise to people when they arrive, as Salome looks almost deserted and most certainly run down.

The first time we found this place we were amazed that the Desert Palms RV Park and Golf Course could survive in this isolated area. The park offers many of the same amenities the parks in Yuma offer as it has a pool, library and a clubhouse used for social gatherings.

We golfed 18 holes today and tried to keep up with Lenore who golfed a 39 on the front nine. Up until this year, the course was a '10 hole' perfectly maintained course, but now that they have opened the 'back 8' holes, the course is in need of a few good rains. Even so, the views were great and the weather was ideal for a round of golf. Tomorrow may be more of the same!

On the Road Again

We left San Carlos Wednesday morning at 6:00am thinking we would be in Tucson by 1:00, hoping to avoid most of the traffic at the Nogales border crossing. As usual, things did not turn out as expected as the roads were under repair and that slowed us down considerably. The border crossing, which is often very easy to cross on Wednesday, was anything but. We were in a line-up for almost two hours before even getting to the US border inspection.


We decided to dry camp at the Desert Diamond Casino which is located 45 minutes north of the border and 10 minutes south of Tucson. We planned to stay one night, but that turned into three as we had so much to do [remember that kitchen sink].




On Saturday we moved to Picacho Peak State Park for an overnight stay. We have been there before and find this place to be quiet and relaxing. The surrounding hills on one side of the park are in stark contrast to the desert on the other side. The park has excellent hiking trails, in the desert and on the hills.

We had made arrangements to meet Doug and Lenore in Salome, Arizona for a week of golfing and visiting so that was our destination for today. We arrived shortly before they did and after setting up, we had a very windy happy hour [the actual wind, not Lenore and I]. It was nice to see 'old' friends after spending so much time on our own and will enjoy golfing with them on the 18 hole course located at the park.

Adios Amigos

We are leaving San Carlos early tomorrow morning and it is not easy to say good-bye. We will be leaving behind many excellent memories and many good friends. It was our winter home and probably will be for many years to come. In fact, we are in the process of early discussions on the purchase of a house in Tecalai [a park next door to Totonaka]. We are also looking seriously at the purchase of a lot that can be developed around our 5th wheel.

During the almost three and one half months we have been here, we have refreshed our memories as to why we love Mexico. We have toured much of this country, whether it be in a Volkswagon van or a truck camper and so are now content to sit in one spot, even though it is not my beloved Yucatan.

We have relearned many things during our stay, such as when showering, always rinse what you have washed immediately for the water may shut off for no reason or the hot mysteriously disappears. We have [or should I say Fred has] developed arm muscles filling the washing machines by pail because there is no water pressure. Never expect something to be completed in a day because this is truly manana land.

The Athletic Centre was a wonderful find and we went there four days out of seven. I would go everyday if my body would let me, but at my age I'm happy with what I do.

Tomorrow we are heading to Tucson for a couple of days to pick up my birthday present, a new laptop and we will then head to Naco for a few days of golfing and to pick up our new sink. We will be out of touch for a few days as there is no Internet where we are going.

Semana Santa

Semana Santa is almost over and the residents of San Carlos are getting ready to give a big sigh of relief. Semana Santa is the spring break for students and families from Hermosillo and Obregon. The influx of people starts as early as Monday, but Semana Santa does not really begin until around 2:00 on Thursday.

There is only one road leading into and out of San Carlos and when 150,000 people invade this small town traffic does not move. The hotels and condos are rented out early and for an extremely inflated price.

There are two distinct crowds in San Carlos during Semana Santa - the hard partying students and the families who bring their children for a weekend on the beach. It is the students who party until the wee hours of the morning and who cruise in their cars, although in reality there is no place to go. The police block off all turn-arounds so the traffic moves from one end of San Carlos, turns around and comes back. This little ceremony goes on from around 3:00pm until 2:00 in the morning Thursday, Friday and Saturday.

The beaches are jammed with families camping in make shift tents, staying in cars and some even camping out in the open. Fred and I went for walks on the beach and never once did we feel unsafe or uncomfortable. The people are here to have fun and get a break from their everyday routine.

Because most of the activity [eating, beer sales and banos] takes place on the beach or on the frontage road, many restaurants and shops close down for Semana Santa. Those who do stay open hire special security to keep people away from their private banos. Taco stands, hot dog stands and beer stands seemed to grow up over night and they are placed anywhere there is an open space. No business licence needed here!

We found Semana Santa in San Carlos fascinating and extremely interesting. Vandalism is almost unheard of and the only downfall is the garbage trail we spotted on our morning run. It will take the town two or three days to clean this mess up, but the beers stands will be gone by 5:00 tonight.

Change of Plans

We had originally planned to leave San Carlos on the 22nd of March, but we have decided to stay longer and enjoy the beautiful weather. We were going to meet Doug and Lenore in Naco for a few rounds of golf but will meet elsewhere. They are reluctant to leave Yuma for the same reasons.

We will leave here next Friday [27th] and go to Kartchner Caverns for a couple of days. Fred and I will eventually hit Naco just because we have to hang around southern Arizona for awhile. We placed a special order for a sink [kitchen renovations] and the only city that can get it is Sierra Vista which is close to Naco. Vegas, Salt Lake City, Great Falls, Calgary - we tried them all. As soon as we pick up the sink we will start the trek home and hopefully be in Eatonia on April 22nd.

Happy Easter to all!

La Palapa

We have been very busy trying to get the last couple of palapa bar reviews in before we leave on Saturday. Yesterday was so windy we didn't go far from the park. Today was much calmer and very warm so we ventured out on our bikes to revisit La Palapa (Griega), a Mexican Greek restaurant/bar.

La Palapa is situated on a rough sand beach and is very popular on certain days and vacant on others. Today the place was packed as the younger crowd is moving in for the Easter break.

The most popular bars seem to have exceptional views and La Palapa is no exception. Sitting at the tables we watched the diving waterbirds straight ahead, the small sailboats to the right (towards the peninsula where the early campers first parked 30 years ago), and to the left we could see the future. The original big San Carlos hotel has been converted into a condominium with granite counters and private swimming pools, and that peninsula on the right is the possible location of a large condo complex - the dream of a Calgary group. To be called Pelican Cove - if it ever flies. The beginning of the end.

This bar has a lot going for it as long as you leave before the second beer - the banos are unbelievable! Some people even flush the toilets using their shoes. Go figure. Last year these washrooms were some of the worst we had seen in Mexico in a long time and this year - well, we left after one beer so will have to wait until next year to report.

The french fries, which have been compared to McDonalds, were greasy and the price of beer has gone up. But then again, so has the Canadian dollar. FH

Mexican Zocalo

Most Mexican towns have a central square or 'zocalo' that they use as a social gathering point. The zocalo in Guaymas is located by the main church and on Sundays it is usually packed with church-goers and friends who just want to meet with other people. In some cities the central square is called the 'Plaza Major' and the people have never heard of a zocalo. The term varies from region to region.

A zocalo almost always has a bandstand in the middle with a connected walkway surrounding the area.

Whenever Fred and I travel to different cities we always try to find the zocalo as it is the area that will give us a true feel of the city. In the older and more traditional parts of Mexico, the zocalo is where the young teenage males gather in the evening to visit with the eligible young females. The girls come in groups and never alone. The more modern Mexicans meet in much the same way Canadians do.

We toured the zocalo in Guaymas today [Sunday] and were not disappointed with the activity we found. Surrounding the zocalo are vendors selling everything from hammocks to tacos and trinkets. Some zocalos are a major draw for beggars and homeless, but we did not see any of this in Guaymas.


We were in the church just before their Sunday service and observed people gathering small bunches of palm leaves. We don't quite know what was going on, but Mo would know the significance of this as she seems to always live as close as possible to a Catholic Church.

Charly's Rock

Charly's Rock, just across the street from Totonak RV, is the closest palapa bar to home. For reasons unknown, we very seldom visit this bar/restaurant. It is situated on a rugged cliff overlooking the water. The main attraction of Charly's is the long bar at the edge of the water which is great for watching the dophins playing in the surf.

Charly's Rock was in the rebuilding stage when we first came to San Carlos three years ago as a fire had destroyed the thatched roof. They have expanded the bar into a large restaurant that specializes in seafood and Sonoran beef. Sonoran beef is famous for its tenderness and taste.

Yesterday, after three months, we finally visited Charly's Rock and surprisingly we enjoyed ourselves a great deal. We met with friends and watched the pelicans come in for the food that gets thrown over the edge. As with most palapa bars in San Carlos, the view was great. As always, Tetakawi was clearly visible.

I found this place to be excellent for a casual afternoon gathering and would go there again with a group. Again, on the washroom theme - Mexican washrooms are seldom up to Canadian standards and this was no exception.

The platform that Fred and I are standing on is used for hitting a golf ball into the water. Free drinks all day long if you hit a special target area!

Soggy Peso

The Soggy Peso was named after a palapa bar in the Virgin Islands called the Soggy Dollar - according to a "reliable" source from Leduc, Alberta. The San Carlos Soggy Peso is located on what people call the Catch 22 beach. The beach itself has beautiful white sand that appears to go on forever.

The Soggy Peso is a popular palapa bar that attracts kite boarders and beach lovers alike. We have gone out on windy days just to watch the boarders performing in the bay. Maggie has spent a few days spalshing in the water and generally showing off to the tourists who frequent the little bar.

The Soggy Peso can almost be classed the "perfect palapa bar". The only drawback is the distance from Totonaka as it is approximately 10 kms from home.

The outside tables are situated right on the beach and there is nothing better than digging your toes into the cool sand on a hot day. The bar food at the Soggy Peso is also very good, especially the crab tacos.

Probably the biggest surprise, especially for Doug and Lenore, would be the clean washrooms. They are brand new and the nicest in all of San Carlos. You had to be here last year to really appreciate this last bit of information.

The Soggy Peso does a thriving business selling T shirts and caps from its store behind the bar. Almost everyone we hang around with wears some sort of Soggy Peso clothing, Fred and I included.

Wrong Date

I posted a new blog on the marina of San Carlos and accidently dated it as March 1st. You will have to go back a few postings to find this new one. Happy hunting!

The Great Sand Hills [of San Carlos]

Today we went to climb the sand hills on Algodones Beach. They are not nearly as impressive as the hills by Sceptre, but they are fun to try to walk on. "Rumour by Fred" has it that this sand was brought in for the filming of the Catch 22 beach scenes and eventually was moved by the wind to where it lies today.

Mexicans love to gather at the beach on Sundays and today was no exception. There were many families having picnics by the water and just enjoying the day. The more wealthy Mexicans have ATVs or quads to climb the hills or run up and down Algodones Beach. The rest just have a picnic on the sand and spend the time building sand castles.

We still have so much to see and do before we leave in two weeks that we decided while we were in the area we should check out the palapa bar near the sand hills. This bar is located by the San Carlos Plaza Hotel and is next to the beach. Other than the location and fantastic fish tacos, this palapa has very little going for it. It does have the required thatched roof, clean washrooms and sand all around, but it is very costly and it is too far out of San Carlos proper to really be considered as a favourite. Regardless, the view from the small patio was wonderful. We could see the boats in the bay and watch the sailboats as they tried to move in close to the shore.

Yaqui Indians

The Yaqui Indians are an ancient Mexican tribe who live in the mountains east of Guaymas. They are a very religious group and each year during Lent they choose young men to walk to towns and cities to perform religious dances.

The Yaquis [usually two or three per group] dance their way through various establishments in San Carlos seeking donations of money for their tribe. The most common dance is the Stag Dance which they perform with small flutes, drums and rattles.

They are not allowed to speak to each other or tourists and we have always been told by Mexicans not to speak to or touch them. It was very surprising when they motioned me to join them for a picture and even more surprising when one put his hand on my shoulder - don't I look scared?

The Yaquis remain in San Carlos for the duration of Lent and they are a common sight at many functions such as the Chili cookoff.

Chili Cookoff

Today was the 8th annual chili cookoff in San Carlos. We arrived at 12:00 and immediately bought the tickets that allowed us to sample the 13 or 14 different chilis. The booths were to be judged by the crowd on best display and best tasting. Of course our favourites never even got top mention. The Canadian "Moose Chili" was popular, but it did not receive any trophies.

Mark Mulligan, a popular American entertainer living in San Carlos, performed barefoot for the better part of the afternoon. They had raffle draws throughout the afternoon. Last year I won a free breakfast for two at a local restaurant and this year I won a rattan snake hanger on the first draw and a print of San Carlos on the second draw. Take note Snowflake! Even though the rattan hanger was not my favourite it brought lots of attention from the women of the crowd and I ended up selling it for 200 pesos [$20].

It was a hot and sunny day so of course the Tecate flowed freely. It was a wonderful way to spend an afternoon in support of a local charity [dog rescue].

San Carlos Marina

San Carlos has two marinas and we particularly like the old marina which is located at the north end of town. There have been a few changes from last year which make this a fun place to visit. Surrounding the boats and yachts are three or four restaurants, five shops and many fishing tour companies. San Carlos was originally famous for its excellent fishing and even today many people come here strictly for the boating and sea life.

Over the three months we have been in San Carlos we have spent a few afternoons at the water soaking up the sun and having Fred's favourite quesadillas at the Marina Cantina. Yesterday was a beautiful, hot day so we found a table on the water's edge and watched the boats come and go. A great way to relax!